A proper inspection covers roughly 200 checkpoints in four areas: 1. Body and paint: panel gaps, paint thickness readings, signs of accident repair. 2. Mechanical: engine health report, transmission behavior, suspension, underbody on a lift, fluid condition. 3. Electronics: full OBD diagnostic scan, airbag history, all lights and comfort features. 4. Documentation: VIN matches everywhere, no lien or seizure record. You can book directly with inspection companies in Guangzhou, Shanghai, or Tianjin (typically USD 100–250) without going through the seller—give them the yard address and car details, and they send a report with photos and video within 1–2 days. Pay the inspection fee yourself so the inspector answers to you, not the exporter.

Odometer fraud exists everywhere, but cross-checking several data points makes it hard to fake: 1) Maintenance records: ask for service history with mileage entries. Gaps or resets are red flags. 2) Tire wear: a car showing 30,000 km should not have nearly bald tires. Compare tread depth against the claimed mileage. 3) Pedals, steering wheel, and seat bolsters: heavy wear on these with low odometer readings is a classic mismatch. 4) Diagnostic scan: request an OBD readout. Many control modules store mileage data internally — if the ECU shows 120,000 km while the dash shows 40,000, you have your answer. 5) Vehicle history report: in China, apps and platforms can pull insurance claim records and registration history, which often reveal the true mileage trail. Always request a live video showing the odometer with the engine running, and have the number written into your contract.

Testing is mandatory. Troubleshooting electrical devices in the car is part of the standard procedure. We will test the window lift motors, mirror folding, air conditioning compressor and fan, electric seat tracks, etc. Any stuttering or failure of electronic components will be recorded.