For gasoline cars, insist on a compression test: each cylinder should read within 10-15% of the others, and the actual values should match factory specs for that engine. A single low cylinder points to worn rings or valve problems that idle checks will never reveal. A leak-down test goes further. It pressurizes each cylinder and measures how much air escapes and where. Air hissing from the oil filler cap means ring wear; from the intake or exhaust means valve issues; bubbles in the radiator coolant mean a head gasket problem. This is the single most revealing test for engine condition. Also request OBD scan data with freeze-frame records, a coolant system pressure test (to catch hidden leaks), and an inspection of the timing belt or chain condition with service history. For electric vehicles, compression tests don't apply — instead ask for a battery health report from the BMS, motor insulation readings, and a road test logging any inverter or drive-unit fault codes. A written report with photos or video of each test is essential evidence for your records.

We cannot privately forge or re-stamp the original vehicle nameplate (this is illegal). If the nameplate is unclear, we will rely on the clear VIN on the windshield and the engine stamp as supplementary proof, and we will warn you of this risk before shipping.

Interior assessment is divided into three core areas: the driver's high-frequency contact area (steering wheel, gear shift, edge of the driver's seat), central control button area, and rear seats and ceiling. The natural sheen of leather surfaces (patina) is normal; however, any physical damage (such as leather tearing, fabric burn holes, or plastic breakage) will be classified as "structural interior damage" and clearly marked.