Rust is a deal-breaker that photos can hide, so be systematic. High-risk areas to check: 1. Underbody and frame rails—surface rust is normal, but flaking or bubbling paint means advanced corrosion 2. Wheel arches and rocker panels—these trap mud and salt 3. Door bottoms and the trunk floor—water collects here; lift the trunk mat and look for dampness or repair welds 4. Around the windshield and sunroof drains—leaks cause hidden rust in the A-pillars Ask the inspector to do a magnet test: filler-repaired areas won't hold a magnet, indicating past accident repairs. A paint thickness gauge reveals resprayed sections—uniform readings around 80-150 microns are normal; spikes over 300 suggest bodywork. Cars from northern China (salted roads in winter) or coastal cities need extra scrutiny on the underbody. If structural members show corrosion, walk away—repairs rarely restore original strength.

The lifespan of rubber sealing strips for frameless doors is usually only 4-5 years. We carefully press the sealing strip at the edge of the roof to check for loss of elasticity and use a high-pressure water gun to wash the seams of the windows to check for direct water leakage due to aging.

A proper inspection covers roughly 200 checkpoints in four areas: 1. Body and paint: panel gaps, paint thickness readings, signs of accident repair. 2. Mechanical: engine health report, transmission behavior, suspension, underbody on a lift, fluid condition. 3. Electronics: full OBD diagnostic scan, airbag history, all lights and comfort features. 4. Documentation: VIN matches everywhere, no lien or seizure record. You can book directly with inspection companies in Guangzhou, Shanghai, or Tianjin (typically USD 100–250) without going through the seller—give them the yard address and car details, and they send a report with photos and video within 1–2 days. Pay the inspection fee yourself so the inspector answers to you, not the exporter.