Localized damage or repair marks on the body; no accident-related damage or repairs to structural or reinforcing components. Vehicle performance (including three-electric system) has degraded or is limited.
Accident inspection: no damage to main structure, reinforcing parts, or panels; hinges normal. Three-electric system: power battery underbody shield scratched. Engine bay: key mechanical components normal. Exterior: none. Interior: most features normal; airbags, seatbelts, instrument cluster, and lights normal. Starting system: major components normal. Onboard tools: none.
Yes. For large B2B government or major fleet procurement projects, to ensure the safety of your deposit, we can issue an advance payment guarantee from one of China's four major state-owned banks, but the buyer must bear the issuance fee.
Rules differ by country. Many markets limit the age of imported used cars (commonly 3-5 years), require left-hand drive, and set minimum emission standards such as Euro 4, 5 or 6. Some regions additionally require a local conformity certificate before the car arrives. Practical steps before any deposit: check your customs authority's official website, or spend 20 minutes with a local customs broker who imports vehicles regularly; give the exporter your country's requirements and the VIN, and ask for proof of the car's emission level (China's standards map roughly to Euro equivalents); confirm the exact model was legally exportable from China. A short verification call at the start can prevent the car being refused entry — or impounded — months later.
Flood cars are common after heavy rain seasons, and the damage often shows up months later in the wiring and electronics. Here is how to check before you buy. First, ask for the insurance claim history using the VIN. Flood claims are usually recorded, and any mention of water damage, interior drying, or electrical repair should stop the deal. Second, inspect the interior yourself or via video call. Pull up the carpet edges and look for mud residue, water marks, or rust on seat rails and seatbelt buckles. Seatbelts that retract slowly or have a musty smell were often submerged. Third, check hidden cavities: the spare tire well, glove box, and under the trunk lining. Silt or a tide line there is a strong flood indicator. Fourth, look for condensation behind the instrument cluster and inside the headlights. Persistent fog in the lamps is a classic sign of water immersion. Finally, an OBD scan can help: flood cars often store scattered error codes across unrelated modules (airbag, ABS, body control) because corroded connectors corrupt the network. If several of these signs appear together, walk away. Flood damage is almost never worth repairing, and it will haunt the car's electronics for its whole life.
