We will remove the chassis guard to physically inspect the battery pack's lower shell for serious dents or scratches, and check for signs of mud or sand intrusion in the waterproof vent at the edge of the battery pack.
Strict definition: All metal body parts (doors, hood, fenders) and the frame must retain the original factory paint, with uniform paint thickness readings. Minor touch-ups or replacements of plastic bumpers, as they do not affect metal corrosion protection and vehicle structure, can still be classified as "original paint" in a broad sense, but we will separately note the condition of the bumper.
Water damage is one of the most common hidden problems in used cars, and it often escapes basic photo reviews. During a live video inspection, ask the inspector to check these specific points: 1. Smell test: A musty or moldy odor inside the cabin is the first red flag. Have them open all doors, run the AC briefly, and smell the air from the vents—musty AC often indicates water in the HVAC system. 2. Under the carpets: Lift the floor mats and look for water lines, rust stains, or dampness on the carpet backing and the metal floor underneath. Sediment or silt residue is a giveaway. 3. Seat rails and bolts: Pull the seats fully forward and backward. Rust on seat rails or fresh-looking bolts suggests the seats were removed for cleaning after flooding. 4. Trunk area: Check the spare tire well and under the trunk carpet for standing water marks or rust. 5. Electronics: Test every window, seat adjustment, and the infotainment screen—water-damaged electronics behave erratically. Also request a scan report: flood cars often store history codes for multiple control modules that failed simultaneously. Cross-check the car's origin; vehicles from flood-prone southern regions deserve extra scrutiny.
