A realistic landed cost has five layers: the car price, export-side fees (deregistration, export license, inland trucking to the port), international freight and insurance, destination duties and taxes, and local charges (port handling, inspection, registration). Buyers most often underestimate three items. First, destination duties are calculated on the customs value, which may include freight, so a cheap car can still attract significant tax. Second, port and terminal charges at both ends add up; demurrage fees apply quickly if documents are late. Third, compliance costs such as homologation, emissions testing, or translation of documents can run into hundreds of dollars depending on the country. Ask every exporter for a written, itemized quote to your port, not just an FOB price, and keep a 5% contingency. Quotes that look unusually cheap usually hide costs in the freight or handling lines.

Used cars are classified under HS heading 8703 (motor vehicles for transport of persons), with the last four digits determined by engine type and size. Gasoline cars usually fall in 8703.21–8703.80 depending on displacement; pure EVs fall under 8703.80; hybrids have their own subheadings. The duty amount depends on your country's tariff schedule: 1. Most countries charge duty on the CIF value (car price + freight + insurance), not the FOB price. 2. Many developing markets levy higher duties on used vehicles than new ones, and some add a surcharge based on age — older cars can cost significantly more to clear. 3. After duty, you typically pay VAT/GST on the CIF + duty total, plus port and customs fees. Practical tips: ask your exporter to state the exact HS code on the commercial invoice and confirm it with a local customs broker before shipping. A wrong code can trigger reclassification, penalties, or delays. Also budget for any excise tax tied to engine capacity — in several markets a 2.5L car clears far cheaper than a 3.5L one.

We maintain an absolute skeptical attitude. In addition to regular visual inspections, we focus on checking for sediment accumulation around the sunroof drainage channels and look for water stains under the A-pillar trim and front floor mats. This is the only effective physical evidence to determine if the sunroof drainage holes are blocked, leading to hidden leaks.