Rust is a deal-breaker that photos can hide, so be systematic. High-risk areas to check: 1. Underbody and frame rails—surface rust is normal, but flaking or bubbling paint means advanced corrosion 2. Wheel arches and rocker panels—these trap mud and salt 3. Door bottoms and the trunk floor—water collects here; lift the trunk mat and look for dampness or repair welds 4. Around the windshield and sunroof drains—leaks cause hidden rust in the A-pillars Ask the inspector to do a magnet test: filler-repaired areas won't hold a magnet, indicating past accident repairs. A paint thickness gauge reveals resprayed sections—uniform readings around 80-150 microns are normal; spikes over 300 suggest bodywork. Cars from northern China (salted roads in winter) or coastal cities need extra scrutiny on the underbody. If structural members show corrosion, walk away—repairs rarely restore original strength.

Common charges beyond the car price: pre-shipment inspection fee, inland trucking from the car's city to the port, export customs clearance, documentation fee, terminal handling charges (THC), certificate fees, and markups hidden inside the freight quote. How to protect yourself: ask for an itemized quotation with each charge listed separately; compare 2-3 exporters, because a very low car price is often offset by inflated fees; confirm which costs are included up to the port of loading and which you pay at destination; agree in writing on the payment currency and the exchange rate date. Your total budget should be: car price + export fees + freight + insurance + destination port charges + import duties and taxes.

Complete records represent underlying trust and zero odometer adjustment risk. In the used car market, solid data history itself carries a high premium. The extra few hundred dollars buys you an impeccable endorsement when selling overseas.