The standard set: commercial invoice, packing list, bill of lading, export customs declaration, certificate of origin, and a copy of the vehicle title/registration. How to verify: the bill of lading number should be trackable on the shipping line's website; the certificate of origin is verifiable through CCPIT's online system; and the VIN must match across all documents, the inspection report, and the car itself. Ask for scans of everything before paying the balance, and have a freight forwarder review the set. Mismatched VINs, missing title copies, or vague promises that "documents will follow" are red flags worth pausing the deal over.

RoRo (roll-on/roll-off) is cheaper and faster for a single car—you drive it onto the vessel and it is secured on the car deck. Container shipping costs more but offers better protection from weather, salt air, and handling damage, and allows you to load spare parts inside the car. Marine insurance is essential either way. Standard cover protects total loss and major damage, but read the exclusions: many policies do not cover pre-existing mechanical faults, cosmetic scratches below a deductible, or damage caused by improper securing (lashings). Ask for ICC(A) or All Risks coverage rather than basic total-loss-only policies. Practical tips: 1. Photograph and video the car thoroughly at loading, with the VIN visible 2. Note existing scratches on the bill of lading 3. Inspect immediately at destination—claims windows are often 3-7 days 4. For EVs, declare the battery; some insurers charge a supplement or exclude battery damage altogether

It completely falls under force majeure. After the delivery is completed (crossing the ship's rail) under FOB or CIF terms, the seller (us) bears no liability for refunds or compensation due to political risks or legal changes in the destination country that hinder customs clearance or lead to confiscation.