A Chinese history report (查博士, 精真估, or 4S-shop records) usually contains several sections. Here's how to read them. Accident records: entries tagged 重大事故 (major accident) or listings at an insurance payout above 30% of the car's value are serious red flags. Airbag deployment is a deal-breaker for most buyers. Mileage timeline: check that mileage increases logically between service visits. A sudden drop between two dates means odometer tampering—walk away. Ownership count: more than 3 owners in 5 years suggests a problem car. Also check the 使用性质 field: a car registered as 营运 (commercial/taxi use) has a much shorter legal lifespan. Maintenance entries: consistent 4S dealership records are a good sign; long gaps aren't necessarily fatal if the owner used independent shops, but ask for receipts. Cross-check the report against the VIN plate, registration certificate, and physical inspection. If the report shows no accidents but paint thickness readings say otherwise, trust the metal, not the paper.

The key document is the 机动车登记证书 (Vehicle Registration Certificate), the green booklet proving ownership. Along with it, the seller should provide the 行驶证 (driving license for the vehicle) and their ID. Verification steps: 1. Check that the VIN/chassis number on the certificate matches the car exactly, stamped on the dashboard and door frame 2. The certificate's 所有人 (owner) field must match the seller's company name or the export agent they claim to work with 3. Look at the registration history pages—frequent transfers in a short period can indicate problem cars being flipped 4. Confirm the car is not marked 抵押 (mortgaged/pledged to a bank) Be cautious if the seller only shows photos of these documents and refuses a live video panning across the original booklet with the day's newspaper. Also verify the export company has 二手车出口资质 (used-car export qualification)—a legitimate exporter will share their license number, which you can cross-check on Chinese commerce bureau websites.

Rust is a deal-breaker that photos can hide, so be systematic. High-risk areas to check: 1. Underbody and frame rails—surface rust is normal, but flaking or bubbling paint means advanced corrosion 2. Wheel arches and rocker panels—these trap mud and salt 3. Door bottoms and the trunk floor—water collects here; lift the trunk mat and look for dampness or repair welds 4. Around the windshield and sunroof drains—leaks cause hidden rust in the A-pillars Ask the inspector to do a magnet test: filler-repaired areas won't hold a magnet, indicating past accident repairs. A paint thickness gauge reveals resprayed sections—uniform readings around 80-150 microns are normal; spikes over 300 suggest bodywork. Cars from northern China (salted roads in winter) or coastal cities need extra scrutiny on the underbody. If structural members show corrosion, walk away—repairs rarely restore original strength.