A normal transaction moves through six stages. First, selection and verification: you shortlist cars, request VIN-level documents, and order an independent inspection (1-2 weeks). Second, contract signing and deposit: 10-30% is standard, paid against a signed contract listing the VIN and agreed spec. Third, export preparation: the seller handles deregistration and export licensing (1-3 weeks). Fourth, final payment against loading: pay the balance only after you receive the bill of lading or rail waybill number you can track. Fifth, transit: ocean shipping to most ports takes 3-6 weeks, rail to Central Asia or Europe 2-4 weeks. Sixth, destination clearance and registration: allow 1-2 weeks plus buffer for inspections. In total, plan for 2-4 months door to door. Any exporter promising full delivery in under six weeks is likely cutting corners on export paperwork.

Act fast and follow the paper trail you built before buying. First, document everything immediately: take photos and videos of the fault, note the date of arrival and the odometer reading. Most exporters offer a commercial warranty window (typically 15-30 days after arrival) for major components like the engine, transmission and high-voltage battery. Contact the exporter in writing with the evidence, referencing your contract's warranty clause. For minor issues, a common arrangement is that they air-freight the spare part to you or reimburse a capped repair amount at a local workshop. To protect yourself before purchase: get the warranty terms written into the sales contract, including response time, what is covered, and how parts compensation is calculated. Also ask which fast-wearing parts (brake pads, filters, wipers) they recommend buying together with the car, so you are not stuck waiting for a small part from overseas.

We maintain an absolute skeptical attitude. In addition to regular visual inspections, we focus on checking for sediment accumulation around the sunroof drainage channels and look for water stains under the A-pillar trim and front floor mats. This is the only effective physical evidence to determine if the sunroof drainage holes are blocked, leading to hidden leaks.