Start with the paperwork: the vehicle registration certificate lists every ownership transfer, and the service book plus dealer maintenance records help confirm mileage. For digital verification, ask the seller for a live video walkaround plus a diagnostic scan report showing the ECU-recorded mileage, which is hard to manipulate. For EVs, request a battery state-of-health (SOH) report — it reveals real usage patterns far better than the odometer. Finally, a pre-shipment inspection by a third party should include structural checks (pillars, chassis rails) to rule out accident repairs. Build "no major accident, no flood or fire damage" into your purchase contract with a refund clause if the inspection contradicts it.

We will directly check the registration certificate (the big green book) and count the number of changes.

Ask for a specific set of photos and video taken with the car on a lift — generic walk-around videos will not show what matters. Request close-ups of: the sills (rocker panels) on both sides, front and rear subframes, suspension mounting points, brake lines, and the floor pan under the carpets. Surface rust on bolts is normal; bubbling paint, flaking metal or fresh undercoat sprayed over corrosion are warning signs. Also check for flood damage, a common hidden problem: look at the spare wheel well for water marks or mud, pull up the trunk carpet, and check the seat rails and seat belt buckles for rust or silt. A musty smell reported by the inspector is a red flag. A trustworthy exporter will provide a lift inspection report listing measured paint thickness on structural areas. If they refuse to put the car on a lift, treat that as an answer in itself.