Odometer fraud exists everywhere, but cross-checking several data points makes it hard to fake: 1) Maintenance records: ask for service history with mileage entries. Gaps or resets are red flags. 2) Tire wear: a car showing 30,000 km should not have nearly bald tires. Compare tread depth against the claimed mileage. 3) Pedals, steering wheel, and seat bolsters: heavy wear on these with low odometer readings is a classic mismatch. 4) Diagnostic scan: request an OBD readout. Many control modules store mileage data internally — if the ECU shows 120,000 km while the dash shows 40,000, you have your answer. 5) Vehicle history report: in China, apps and platforms can pull insurance claim records and registration history, which often reveal the true mileage trail. Always request a live video showing the odometer with the engine running, and have the number written into your contract.

We will directly check the registration certificate (the big green book) and count the number of changes.

A Certificate of Origin (C/O) is an official document stating where the vehicle was manufactured. Customs authorities use it to decide which tariff rates and trade agreements apply to your import. Why it matters: many countries offer preferential tariffs for certain origins. With a valid C/O, such as the ASEAN-China Form E or a GSP Form A, you may pay reduced or zero duty. Without it, you typically pay the standard, higher rate. The certificate must match the vehicle exactly: VIN, make, model and invoice details. It is usually issued by the China Council for the Promotion of International Trade (CCPIT) or customs authorities. Practical tips: request the C/O before shipment, because adding it later is slow; check that your country's customs accepts the specific C/O format; and confirm with your broker whether your vehicle category qualifies for preferential rates. This single document can save you thousands in duty.