Odometer rollback happens everywhere, so never trust the dashboard number alone. Cross-check at least three sources: 1. Maintenance records: Chinese 4S dealerships keep service logs tied to the VIN. Ask the exporter for screenshots showing recorded mileage at each visit — the numbers should rise consistently. 2. Inspection reports: China requires periodic emissions/safety inspections, and the mileage is logged at each one. The exporter can pull the car's inspection history. 3. Tire and wear clues: Compare the claimed mileage with brake pedal rubber, steering wheel shine, seat bolster wear, and the tire production dates. A car showing 30,000 km with a polished steering wheel and second set of tires is suspicious. Also check the dashboard for uneven digits or scratches around the odometer area in photos. If maintenance and inspection records roughly agree, the reading is usually trustworthy; if the seller refuses to share records, treat the mileage as unknown and negotiate accordingly.

Unless the previous owner retained the original parts and provided them to us, we usually keep the existing modifications and clearly state in the report "includes non-original modifications." Since the standards for illegal modifications vary by country, buyers should assess whether these modifications can legally pass inspection in their destination country.

China's vehicle data is less centralized than in the US or Europe, but you can still verify a lot: 1. Ask the exporter for the VIN and order a third-party history report from Chinese services; they aggregate insurance claims and repair records. 2. Cross-check the registration date on the title with the odometer—a 3-year-old car showing 30,000 km but registered as a ride-hailing vehicle is a red flag. 3. Request maintenance records from the brand's dealer network; digital records are increasingly common. 4. Verify the seller legally owns the car: the registration certificate name should match the exporter's business license. Gaps are common, so treat the history report as one input, not proof. Combine it with an independent pre-purchase inspection, and hold back part of the payment until the inspection passes.