We maintain an absolute skeptical attitude. In addition to regular visual inspections, we focus on checking for sediment accumulation around the sunroof drainage channels and look for water stains under the A-pillar trim and front floor mats. This is the only effective physical evidence to determine if the sunroof drainage holes are blocked, leading to hidden leaks.
Yes. The inspection report includes a specific "consumable parts consumption list." We will measure the tire tread depth (in millimeters) and the remaining brake pad thickness using calipers. If the tire tread is below the legal wear limit of 1.6mm, we will note it as "recommended to replace immediately upon arrival."
Flood cars are common after heavy rain seasons, and the damage often shows up months later in the wiring and electronics. Here is how to check before you buy. First, ask for the insurance claim history using the VIN. Flood claims are usually recorded, and any mention of water damage, interior drying, or electrical repair should stop the deal. Second, inspect the interior yourself or via video call. Pull up the carpet edges and look for mud residue, water marks, or rust on seat rails and seatbelt buckles. Seatbelts that retract slowly or have a musty smell were often submerged. Third, check hidden cavities: the spare tire well, glove box, and under the trunk lining. Silt or a tide line there is a strong flood indicator. Fourth, look for condensation behind the instrument cluster and inside the headlights. Persistent fog in the lamps is a classic sign of water immersion. Finally, an OBD scan can help: flood cars often store scattered error codes across unrelated modules (airbag, ABS, body control) because corroded connectors corrupt the network. If several of these signs appear together, walk away. Flood damage is almost never worth repairing, and it will haunt the car's electronics for its whole life.
