Rust is one of the most underestimated problems in remote buying. Request specific evidence: photos of the underbody, wheel arches, door sills, and around the windshield seal; close-ups of suspension mounting points; and ideally paint thickness readings across panels (factory paint is typically 80-120μm; heavy patches suggest bodywork). Northern Chinese cars may have winter road-salt corrosion; coastal cars can show surface rust on exposed metal. Surface rust on exhaust and bolts is normal—structural rust on frame rails, subframes, or brake lines is a deal-breaker, especially if the car is headed to a humid or coastal market. Have the inspector tap suspicious areas during the video call: flaky or bubbling metal sounds hollow. Walk away if the seller refuses underbody photos.

Rules differ by country. Many markets limit the age of imported used cars (commonly 3-5 years), require left-hand drive, and set minimum emission standards such as Euro 4, 5 or 6. Some regions additionally require a local conformity certificate before the car arrives. Practical steps before any deposit: check your customs authority's official website, or spend 20 minutes with a local customs broker who imports vehicles regularly; give the exporter your country's requirements and the VIN, and ask for proof of the car's emission level (China's standards map roughly to Euro equivalents); confirm the exact model was legally exportable from China. A short verification call at the start can prevent the car being refused entry — or impounded — months later.

FOB (Free On Board): Includes the purchase price of the vehicle, transfer fees for registration in China, export license fees, logistics costs for trucking to the port within China, and port handling and customs fees. CIF (Cost, Insurance, and Freight): In addition to FOB, it includes the shipping cost from China to your designated destination port (RoRo or container), as well as cargo insurance during international shipping.