As rubber seals age, "slight oil seepage (oil stains but no dripping)" is very common in used cars and is not considered a major fault. Our recommendation is: as long as the oil level does not drop abnormally, just clean and monitor it regularly after arrival, without the need to immediately incur high costs to disassemble and replace the seals.

For gasoline cars, insist on a compression test: each cylinder should read within 10-15% of the others, and the actual values should match factory specs for that engine. A single low cylinder points to worn rings or valve problems that idle checks will never reveal. A leak-down test goes further. It pressurizes each cylinder and measures how much air escapes and where. Air hissing from the oil filler cap means ring wear; from the intake or exhaust means valve issues; bubbles in the radiator coolant mean a head gasket problem. This is the single most revealing test for engine condition. Also request OBD scan data with freeze-frame records, a coolant system pressure test (to catch hidden leaks), and an inspection of the timing belt or chain condition with service history. For electric vehicles, compression tests don't apply — instead ask for a battery health report from the BMS, motor insulation readings, and a road test logging any inverter or drive-unit fault codes. A written report with photos or video of each test is essential evidence for your records.

The inspection report only represents the physical condition of the vehicle at the moment the inspection was completed (down to the minute). Once the vehicle begins long-distance inland towing or international shipping, the report no longer guarantees the future condition due to drastic environmental changes.