Flood cars are common after heavy rain seasons, and the damage often shows up months later in the wiring and electronics. Here is how to check before you buy. First, ask for the insurance claim history using the VIN. Flood claims are usually recorded, and any mention of water damage, interior drying, or electrical repair should stop the deal. Second, inspect the interior yourself or via video call. Pull up the carpet edges and look for mud residue, water marks, or rust on seat rails and seatbelt buckles. Seatbelts that retract slowly or have a musty smell were often submerged. Third, check hidden cavities: the spare tire well, glove box, and under the trunk lining. Silt or a tide line there is a strong flood indicator. Fourth, look for condensation behind the instrument cluster and inside the headlights. Persistent fog in the lamps is a classic sign of water immersion. Finally, an OBD scan can help: flood cars often store scattered error codes across unrelated modules (airbag, ABS, body control) because corroded connectors corrupt the network. If several of these signs appear together, walk away. Flood damage is almost never worth repairing, and it will haunt the car's electronics for its whole life.

A structured live video inspection can catch most mechanical problems. Ask the seller to do the following in order: Cold start: film the engine bay before starting — check for leaks, cracked hoses, and corrosion. Then start from cold and listen for rattling or knocking during the first minute; abnormal noises on cold start often mean worn internals. Fluids: pull the oil dipstick — milky or foamy oil suggests head gasket issues. Check coolant color and level. Transmission: with the car warmed up, film each gear shift, forward and reverse. Hesitation, harsh jerks, or slipping RPM are red flags. Brakes: test at low speed in a safe area — the pedal should feel firm, not spongy, and the car must not pull to one side. Tires: walk around and film each tire's sidewall and tread. Uneven wear suggests alignment or suspension problems. Combine this with an independent pre-shipment inspection for a professional report — the video call is your first filter, not the final verdict.

Once the car is loaded, the exporter (or freight forwarder) should send you a booking confirmation and, after departure, the Bill of Lading (B/L). The B/L is the key document: it shows the shipper, consignee, vessel, ports, and usually the VIN and container number. You can track the vessel on the shipping line's website using the B/L number or container number, or through third-party trackers like MarineTraffic. As the shipment approaches, the agent at destination issues an Arrival Notice. To collect the car you will typically need the original B/L (or a telex release/e-release), the arrival notice, your ID, and customs clearance paperwork. Check the B/L carefully as soon as you receive it—VIN, container number, and your name must be exactly right, because correcting a B/L mid-voyage is slow and expensive.