For gasoline cars, insist on a compression test: each cylinder should read within 10-15% of the others, and the actual values should match factory specs for that engine. A single low cylinder points to worn rings or valve problems that idle checks will never reveal. A leak-down test goes further. It pressurizes each cylinder and measures how much air escapes and where. Air hissing from the oil filler cap means ring wear; from the intake or exhaust means valve issues; bubbles in the radiator coolant mean a head gasket problem. This is the single most revealing test for engine condition. Also request OBD scan data with freeze-frame records, a coolant system pressure test (to catch hidden leaks), and an inspection of the timing belt or chain condition with service history. For electric vehicles, compression tests don't apply — instead ask for a battery health report from the BMS, motor insulation readings, and a road test logging any inverter or drive-unit fault codes. A written report with photos or video of each test is essential evidence for your records.

We will honestly inform you of the common issues with this model (such as the water pump failure in certain German cars) and show that this car has had the improved parts replaced.

Request a live video call during the test drive rather than a pre-recorded one. Cold start first: listen for rattling or metal scraping in the first seconds — possible timing chain or hydraulic lifter issues. During acceleration, a whining from the gearbox area can mean bearing wear; hesitation or jerking in an automatic suggests transmission problems. Braking: the pedal should feel firm, not spongy, and the car must not pull to one side. Turn the wheel fully in both directions and listen for clicking — a classic CV joint fault. Insist on a highway segment too: vibrations above 100 km/h often point to unbalanced wheels or bent rims. Ask the driver to film the dashboard throughout — warning lights that flicker on briefly are still faults that OBD will record.