Fake or recycled inspection reports are a real risk. Verify authenticity before wiring the balance payment. First, match the VIN: the report must show the full VIN, and the photos must include close-ups of the VIN plate on the chassis and the windshield tag. Ask for a live video call where the inspector walks to the car, shows the VIN tag, and then pans across the dashboard, odometer, and any defects noted in the report—on the same call. Check metadata: ask for original photos rather than screenshots. Files sent via WeChat often strip EXIF, so request the inspector to email originals or use a cloud link where timestamps and GPS data are visible. Cross-verify details: the odometer reading in the video should match the report exactly, and paint-thickness readings should be reproducible—ask the inspector to re-measure 2-3 spots live. Use a known inspection company rather than one recommended solely by the seller, and pay the inspector directly. An independent inspector has no incentive to hide defects.

We will directly check the registration certificate (the big green book) and count the number of changes.

The nameplate date is the absolute time when the vehicle leaves the factory; the registration date is when the vehicle is registered with the traffic management department after sale. The difference represents the time the vehicle spent in the dealer's warehouse or logistics. If the time difference exceeds 6-8 months, the vehicle is considered a "stock vehicle," and we pay special attention to the natural aging of its rubber components.