Rust is a deal-breaker that photos can hide, so be systematic. High-risk areas to check: 1. Underbody and frame rails—surface rust is normal, but flaking or bubbling paint means advanced corrosion 2. Wheel arches and rocker panels—these trap mud and salt 3. Door bottoms and the trunk floor—water collects here; lift the trunk mat and look for dampness or repair welds 4. Around the windshield and sunroof drains—leaks cause hidden rust in the A-pillars Ask the inspector to do a magnet test: filler-repaired areas won't hold a magnet, indicating past accident repairs. A paint thickness gauge reveals resprayed sections—uniform readings around 80-150 microns are normal; spikes over 300 suggest bodywork. Cars from northern China (salted roads in winter) or coastal cities need extra scrutiny on the underbody. If structural members show corrosion, walk away—repairs rarely restore original strength.

Absolutely. Even if you clear customs through gray channels, local commercial insurance companies will refuse to cover third-party liability insurance due to the vehicle not complying with national traffic laws; additionally, the vehicle will definitely fail the annual safety inspection at the local DMV.

Most models adjust through the central control screen menu, while a few models (like some BYD or MG) retain physical levers or paddles on the center console or steering wheel. We will check if the drag feel when the system engages is linearly normal.