Body components (structural/reinforcing/covering) have accident-related damage, passive safety devices are defective, vehicle performance (including three-electric system) is degraded or remains performance-limited after repairs.
Accident inspection: main structure damaged, reinforcing parts undamaged, covering parts damaged, hinges normal; engine bay inspection: key mechanical components in engine bay normal; exterior: 2 sheet metal repairs, 1 paint repair; interior: headliner dirty, most features normal, airbag inspection normal, lighting system normal; start-up inspection: main components normal; on-board tools: none.
Be sure to purchase cargo insurance (all-risk or water damage insurance). In case of damage, claim with the bill of lading, insurance policy, and proof of damage at the destination port.
Most models adjust through the central control screen menu, while a few models (like some BYD or MG) retain physical levers or paddles on the center console or steering wheel. We will check if the drag feel when the system engages is linearly normal.
Odometer fraud exists everywhere, but cross-checking several data points makes it hard to fake: 1) Maintenance records: ask for service history with mileage entries. Gaps or resets are red flags. 2) Tire wear: a car showing 30,000 km should not have nearly bald tires. Compare tread depth against the claimed mileage. 3) Pedals, steering wheel, and seat bolsters: heavy wear on these with low odometer readings is a classic mismatch. 4) Diagnostic scan: request an OBD readout. Many control modules store mileage data internally — if the ECU shows 120,000 km while the dash shows 40,000, you have your answer. 5) Vehicle history report: in China, apps and platforms can pull insurance claim records and registration history, which often reveal the true mileage trail. Always request a live video showing the odometer with the engine running, and have the number written into your contract.
