Ask the exporter for a paint thickness gauge report, or request a live video where they measure the car in front of you. What to look for: · Factory paint on most Chinese cars measures 80–120 microns. Readings above 150–200 microns on a panel usually mean repainting; above 300 microns often means body filler (putty) underneath. · Inconsistent readings between panels (e.g., left door 95µm, right door 180µm) suggest the right side was repaired. · Check gaps between panels (doors, hood, trunk). Uneven gaps or misaligned headlights/bumper clips point to past collision repairs. · Look for overspray on rubber seals, plastic trim, or inside door jambs — a clear sign of repainting. · Check bolt heads on fenders, doors, and hood. Wrench marks or fresh paint over bolts mean the panel was removed. Combine these checks with an OBD scan for airbag or crash-related fault codes. Any repainting should be declared by the seller; if discovered undeclared, you have grounds to renegotiate or reject the car.

Customs clearance at destination is usually handled by a licensed customs broker, not the exporter. You can hire one yourself or use a broker recommended by your shipping agent. The typical flow: your broker files the import declaration using the documents the exporter must provide — the commercial invoice, packing list, bill of lading, and the certificate of origin. Depending on your country's rules, you will also need to pay import duty, VAT or sales tax, and any excise or environmental levies before the car is released. Things that commonly delay clearance: mismatched VIN numbers between documents, missing pre-shipment inspection certificates (required in some African and Middle Eastern countries), or non-compliance with your country's used-car import age limits. Budget 3–10 working days for clearance after the vessel arrives, plus storage fees if documents are incomplete. Tip: send all documents to your broker for review before the ship departs China — fixing errors at origin is much cheaper than demurrage at destination.

4S dealership records are directly connected to the manufacturer's database, making the data hard to tamper with and the most reliable, with original parts guaranteed; third-party repair shops usually are not connected, making their data unverifiable. Therefore, we only consider the connected records from 4S dealerships as valid historical documentation.