Odometer fraud exists everywhere, but cross-checking several data points makes it hard to fake: 1) Maintenance records: ask for service history with mileage entries. Gaps or resets are red flags. 2) Tire wear: a car showing 30,000 km should not have nearly bald tires. Compare tread depth against the claimed mileage. 3) Pedals, steering wheel, and seat bolsters: heavy wear on these with low odometer readings is a classic mismatch. 4) Diagnostic scan: request an OBD readout. Many control modules store mileage data internally — if the ECU shows 120,000 km while the dash shows 40,000, you have your answer. 5) Vehicle history report: in China, apps and platforms can pull insurance claim records and registration history, which often reveal the true mileage trail. Always request a live video showing the odometer with the engine running, and have the number written into your contract.

Battery condition is the single most important — and most expensive — variable in a used EV. Ask for a State of Health (SOH) report: in China, dealers and authorized service centers can read it via the manufacturer diagnostic system. It shows remaining capacity as a percentage of the original. Rule of thumb: above 90% is excellent, 85-90% is acceptable for the price, below 80% needs a serious price cut or battery refurbishment. Also get the battery's full charge and discharge history (次数) — a 3-year-old car with 800 fast-charge cycles has lived a harder life than one with 200. Physically, inspect the battery pack enclosure on a lift for dents, corrosion, or coolant leaks. Check that DC fast charging works during a test charge. Finally, verify the battery is not covered by an open recall or replacement program — this is both a risk and sometimes a free upgrade.

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