We maintain an extremely cautious and firm denial. Some platforms may cater to such demands for orders, but converting left-hand drive to right-hand drive involves complex steering column cutting, firewall structure changes, and wiring harness reorganization. This non-factory deep modification poses significant safety risks and is very difficult to pass vehicle safety inspections in developed countries (such as Japan's earthquake test and the UK's IVA test). Out of responsibility for safety and long-term reputation, we refuse to provide any steering conversion services that damage the vehicle's underlying structure.

Rust is a deal-breaker that photos can hide, so be systematic. High-risk areas to check: 1. Underbody and frame rails—surface rust is normal, but flaking or bubbling paint means advanced corrosion 2. Wheel arches and rocker panels—these trap mud and salt 3. Door bottoms and the trunk floor—water collects here; lift the trunk mat and look for dampness or repair welds 4. Around the windshield and sunroof drains—leaks cause hidden rust in the A-pillars Ask the inspector to do a magnet test: filler-repaired areas won't hold a magnet, indicating past accident repairs. A paint thickness gauge reveals resprayed sections—uniform readings around 80-150 microns are normal; spikes over 300 suggest bodywork. Cars from northern China (salted roads in winter) or coastal cities need extra scrutiny on the underbody. If structural members show corrosion, walk away—repairs rarely restore original strength.

As the importer, you mainly need to bear the following costs at the destination port: import duties, VAT or GST, terminal handling charges, local customs clearance fees, and inland logistics costs from the port to your company. Please consult your local customs broker before placing an order to accurately calculate the total landing costs.