China does not have a single public accident database like CARFAX, but you can still verify history from several sources. First, ask the exporter for the insurance claim records (出险记录). Major repairs go through insurance, and the claim history shows the date, amount, and damaged parts. A car with large claim amounts (over half its value) is effectively a total loss rebuild. Second, check the vehicle's registration certificate (机动车登记证书) for transfer history — multiple transfers in a short period often follow an accident. Third, run a VIN check through commercial platforms (paid, around 20-50 RMB) which aggregate insurance, maintenance, and auction data. Cross-check everything against a physical inspection: paint thickness readings on structural points, weld quality under the seals, and underbody photos. If the records and the physical condition do not match, walk away or demand a large discount.

China's vehicle data is less centralized than in the US or Europe, but you can still verify a lot: 1. Ask the exporter for the VIN and order a third-party history report from Chinese services; they aggregate insurance claims and repair records. 2. Cross-check the registration date on the title with the odometer—a 3-year-old car showing 30,000 km but registered as a ride-hailing vehicle is a red flag. 3. Request maintenance records from the brand's dealer network; digital records are increasingly common. 4. Verify the seller legally owns the car: the registration certificate name should match the exporter's business license. Gaps are common, so treat the history report as one input, not proof. Combine it with an independent pre-purchase inspection, and hold back part of the payment until the inspection passes.

Rust is a deal-breaker that photos can hide, so be systematic. High-risk areas to check: 1. Underbody and frame rails—surface rust is normal, but flaking or bubbling paint means advanced corrosion 2. Wheel arches and rocker panels—these trap mud and salt 3. Door bottoms and the trunk floor—water collects here; lift the trunk mat and look for dampness or repair welds 4. Around the windshield and sunroof drains—leaks cause hidden rust in the A-pillars Ask the inspector to do a magnet test: filler-repaired areas won't hold a magnet, indicating past accident repairs. A paint thickness gauge reveals resprayed sections—uniform readings around 80-150 microns are normal; spikes over 300 suggest bodywork. Cars from northern China (salted roads in winter) or coastal cities need extra scrutiny on the underbody. If structural members show corrosion, walk away—repairs rarely restore original strength.