A proper pre-shipment inspection is more than photos — it is a documented technical examination covering four areas. 1. Structure: paint thickness readings across the body, weld inspection of pillars and chassis rails, rust assessment underneath. 2. Mechanical: engine compression or at least a cold-start video, transmission shifts through all gears, suspension noise test on uneven roads, brake pad and disc thickness measurements. 3. Electronics: full OBD diagnostic scan with printed fault codes, all lights, windows, AC, infotainment, and driver-assistance functions tested. 4. Documentation: VIN and engine number physically matched to the registration certificate, photos of the certificate itself. Insist on a written report with photos, measured values, and a clear pass/fail conclusion per section. Make final payment conditional on this report, not on the seller's word or showroom-condition photos.

A professional pre-shipment inspection typically costs a small fraction of the vehicle price and routinely pays for itself. A thorough inspection covers: paint thickness measurement across 30+ points to map body repairs; structural assessment of pillars, rails and crossmembers for accident damage; engine and transmission operation; a full electronic scan for fault codes; suspension and underbody checks for leaks and rust; and, for EVs, battery SOH and thermal management performance. You receive a written report with photos before the car is loaded — if the car fails, you can stop the shipment or renegotiate. Skipping the inspection to save a small fee is the classic false economy in used car importing: discovering a problem after arrival is far more expensive than preventing it at origin.

The 12V battery is small but critical: when it dies, the car cannot start, unlock, or charge. Used EVs often have weak 12V batteries because they sit on lots for months. Before shipping, ask the exporter to: 1. Measure the battery voltage after the car has rested overnight. It should read around 12.4-12.8V; anything under 12.2V means the battery is degraded. 2. Start the car and check that the charging system holds 13.8-14.4V, confirming the DC-DC converter works. 3. Scan for stored fault codes related to low voltage, which indicate the battery has been deeply discharged repeatedly. During ocean freight, the battery slowly self-discharges. Ask that it be disconnected or kept on a maintainer before loading, and budget for a replacement after arrival if the battery is over 3 years old. A new 12V battery costs little compared to being stranded at the port.