For gasoline cars, insist on a compression test: each cylinder should read within 10-15% of the others, and the actual values should match factory specs for that engine. A single low cylinder points to worn rings or valve problems that idle checks will never reveal. A leak-down test goes further. It pressurizes each cylinder and measures how much air escapes and where. Air hissing from the oil filler cap means ring wear; from the intake or exhaust means valve issues; bubbles in the radiator coolant mean a head gasket problem. This is the single most revealing test for engine condition. Also request OBD scan data with freeze-frame records, a coolant system pressure test (to catch hidden leaks), and an inspection of the timing belt or chain condition with service history. For electric vehicles, compression tests don't apply — instead ask for a battery health report from the BMS, motor insulation readings, and a road test logging any inverter or drive-unit fault codes. A written report with photos or video of each test is essential evidence for your records.

Interior wear is harder to fake than an odometer and often reveals true usage better than any document. Focus on high-contact points the seller rarely restores. The driver's seat bolster shows creasing and cracking by 80,000-100,000 km even with covers. Steering wheel leather polishes smooth and darkens with hand oils; a shiny wheel with low claimed mileage is a red flag. Pedal rubbers wear through at similar rates — check accelerator, brake, and clutch depth. Second-row wear patterns tell you how the car was used: heavy child-seat indentations suggest family use (usually gentler), while uniform rear wear with clean front suggests commercial or ride-hailing duty. Check seat rails for rust (indicates water ingress) and look under floor mats for moisture staining or musty smell — flood cars often hide it there. Also examine the infotainment and instrument cluster: Chinese EVs log usage data internally, and a dealer diagnostic readout can cross-check driving hours against mileage. Request close-up, well-lit photos of these specific points during your live video inspection rather than relying on the seller's gallery.

The standard set: commercial invoice, packing list, bill of lading, export customs declaration, certificate of origin, and a copy of the vehicle title/registration. How to verify: the bill of lading number should be trackable on the shipping line's website; the certificate of origin is verifiable through CCPIT's online system; and the VIN must match across all documents, the inspection report, and the car itself. Ask for scans of everything before paying the balance, and have a freight forwarder review the set. Mismatched VINs, missing title copies, or vague promises that "documents will follow" are red flags worth pausing the deal over.