A Certificate of Origin (C/O) is an official document stating where the vehicle was manufactured. Customs authorities use it to decide which tariff rates and trade agreements apply to your import. Why it matters: many countries offer preferential tariffs for certain origins. With a valid C/O, such as the ASEAN-China Form E or a GSP Form A, you may pay reduced or zero duty. Without it, you typically pay the standard, higher rate. The certificate must match the vehicle exactly: VIN, make, model and invoice details. It is usually issued by the China Council for the Promotion of International Trade (CCPIT) or customs authorities. Practical tips: request the C/O before shipment, because adding it later is slow; check that your country's customs accepts the specific C/O format; and confirm with your broker whether your vehicle category qualifies for preferential rates. This single document can save you thousands in duty.

RoRo (roll-on/roll-off) is cheaper and faster for a single car—you drive it onto the vessel and it is secured on the car deck. Container shipping costs more but offers better protection from weather, salt air, and handling damage, and allows you to load spare parts inside the car. Marine insurance is essential either way. Standard cover protects total loss and major damage, but read the exclusions: many policies do not cover pre-existing mechanical faults, cosmetic scratches below a deductible, or damage caused by improper securing (lashings). Ask for ICC(A) or All Risks coverage rather than basic total-loss-only policies. Practical tips: 1. Photograph and video the car thoroughly at loading, with the VIN visible 2. Note existing scratches on the bill of lading 3. Inspect immediately at destination—claims windows are often 3-7 days 4. For EVs, declare the battery; some insurers charge a supplement or exclude battery damage altogether

The battery pack is 30–50% of an EV's value, so its inspection should be the most detailed part of the pre-shipment check. Require these items: 1. BMS data readout: state of health (SOH), full-charge voltage, cell voltage deviation, cycle count, and fast-charging percentage. SOH above 90% is good; below 80% means a costly pack replacement is approaching. 2. Physical inspection: check the underbody for pack dents, coolant leaks from the battery cooling circuit, and corrosion on high-voltage connectors. 3. Range test: a real drive of at least 30–50 km, comparing energy consumption against the rated figure. A pack with poor cells overheats and depletes fast. 4. Charging test: verify both AC and DC charging work, and record charging speed and any error messages. Get the raw diagnostic data, not just a summary. If the inspector won't share the BMS report, assume the battery is the reason why.