VIN consistency is checked at customs in both China and your country, and a mismatch can block clearance. Do the following: 1. Verify early: before payment, ask for clear photos of the VIN plate (dashboard, door frame, engine bay on some models) and compare them with the VIN on the purchase contract, inspection report and any registration documents. 2. Check the characters: VINs never contain the letters I, O or Q. If you see them, the document is either fake or mistyped. 3. Decode it: the first 3 characters are the world manufacturer code, characters 4-8 describe the model and configuration. Decode it online to confirm the documents match the actual trim level you are buying. 4. At destination: when the car arrives, re-check the VIN against the bill of lading and your import declaration before accepting delivery. Any discrepancy found before shipping can be corrected cheaply; after arrival it becomes a legal problem. Make VIN verification part of your pre-shipment inspection checklist.

A solid contract is your main protection in a cross-border deal. It should specify: 1. Vehicle identification: VIN, year, mileage, trim level, and photos of the actual car appended as an annex — not just「a 2021 Toyota」. 2. Condition guarantees: no accident, no flood or fire damage, no structural repairs, supported by a third-party inspection report referenced in the contract. 3. Price and Incoterm: total amount, currency, the named port, and whether freight and insurance are included. 4. Payment schedule: e.g., 20–30% deposit after contract signing, balance against copy of the Bill of Lading. Avoid 100% upfront. Use T/T to the company's corporate bank account only — never a personal account. 5. Timeline: inspection date, estimated loading date, and latest shipment date, with remedies if delayed. 6. Dispute clause: governing law and arbitration (CIETAC or your local chamber) rather than foreign court litigation. Ask for the contract in English (or bilingual) with the supplier's company chop. A company that refuses a written contract or pushes for full prepayment is a red flag.

For gasoline cars, insist on a compression test: each cylinder should read within 10-15% of the others, and the actual values should match factory specs for that engine. A single low cylinder points to worn rings or valve problems that idle checks will never reveal. A leak-down test goes further. It pressurizes each cylinder and measures how much air escapes and where. Air hissing from the oil filler cap means ring wear; from the intake or exhaust means valve issues; bubbles in the radiator coolant mean a head gasket problem. This is the single most revealing test for engine condition. Also request OBD scan data with freeze-frame records, a coolant system pressure test (to catch hidden leaks), and an inspection of the timing belt or chain condition with service history. For electric vehicles, compression tests don't apply — instead ask for a battery health report from the BMS, motor insulation readings, and a road test logging any inverter or drive-unit fault codes. A written report with photos or video of each test is essential evidence for your records.