Ask the exporter for a paint thickness gauge report, or request a live video where they measure the car in front of you. What to look for: · Factory paint on most Chinese cars measures 80–120 microns. Readings above 150–200 microns on a panel usually mean repainting; above 300 microns often means body filler (putty) underneath. · Inconsistent readings between panels (e.g., left door 95µm, right door 180µm) suggest the right side was repaired. · Check gaps between panels (doors, hood, trunk). Uneven gaps or misaligned headlights/bumper clips point to past collision repairs. · Look for overspray on rubber seals, plastic trim, or inside door jambs — a clear sign of repainting. · Check bolt heads on fenders, doors, and hood. Wrench marks or fresh paint over bolts mean the panel was removed. Combine these checks with an OBD scan for airbag or crash-related fault codes. Any repainting should be declared by the seller; if discovered undeclared, you have grounds to renegotiate or reject the car.

Rust is one of the most underestimated problems in remote buying. Request specific evidence: photos of the underbody, wheel arches, door sills, and around the windshield seal; close-ups of suspension mounting points; and ideally paint thickness readings across panels (factory paint is typically 80-120μm; heavy patches suggest bodywork). Northern Chinese cars may have winter road-salt corrosion; coastal cars can show surface rust on exposed metal. Surface rust on exhaust and bolts is normal—structural rust on frame rails, subframes, or brake lines is a deal-breaker, especially if the car is headed to a humid or coastal market. Have the inspector tap suspicious areas during the video call: flaky or bubbling metal sounds hollow. Walk away if the seller refuses underbody photos.

We will remove the chassis guard to physically inspect the battery pack's lower shell for serious dents or scratches, and check for signs of mud or sand intrusion in the waterproof vent at the edge of the battery pack.