Interior wear is harder to fake than an odometer and often reveals true usage better than any document. Focus on high-contact points the seller rarely restores. The driver's seat bolster shows creasing and cracking by 80,000-100,000 km even with covers. Steering wheel leather polishes smooth and darkens with hand oils; a shiny wheel with low claimed mileage is a red flag. Pedal rubbers wear through at similar rates — check accelerator, brake, and clutch depth. Second-row wear patterns tell you how the car was used: heavy child-seat indentations suggest family use (usually gentler), while uniform rear wear with clean front suggests commercial or ride-hailing duty. Check seat rails for rust (indicates water ingress) and look under floor mats for moisture staining or musty smell — flood cars often hide it there. Also examine the infotainment and instrument cluster: Chinese EVs log usage data internally, and a dealer diagnostic readout can cross-check driving hours against mileage. Request close-up, well-lit photos of these specific points during your live video inspection rather than relying on the seller's gallery.

The vehicle's wireless charging module (usually Qi protocol) is considered functional as long as it can properly sense and light up with our tested mainstream models. The seller is not responsible for charging issues caused by the buyer's personal electronic device compatibility.

Typically you will need: 1. The commercial invoice and packing list from the seller; 2. The bill of lading issued by the shipping line; 3. The vehicle's export customs declaration; 4. The original registration certificate and a deregistration or transfer proof from China; 5. A certificate of origin if your country requires it; 6. Destination-specific documents, such as a pre-shipment inspection certificate (for example ECTN for West African ports). Requirements vary by country, so confirm the full list with your customs broker before shipment.