Verify if the vehicle model is within the manufacturer's EU certification scope. If not, contact the certification company for single model certification; otherwise, it cannot be registered in Europe.

Start by asking the seller for a photo of the full vehicle registration certificate. Check that the registered owner matches the seller's company name. Any change of ownership should appear with a transfer stamp and date. Second, request a lien check. In China, vehicle mortgages are registered with the vehicle management office. A clean certificate shows no mortgage registration; if one exists, the car cannot be legally exported until the loan is settled and the lien released. Third, verify there are no unpaid traffic fines and no gaps in compulsory insurance, since these can block export clearance. Ask the platform to include a title verification step in the transaction flow, and only pay the balance after the title transfer to the export company is confirmed.

Rust is a deal-breaker that photos can hide, so be systematic. High-risk areas to check: 1. Underbody and frame rails—surface rust is normal, but flaking or bubbling paint means advanced corrosion 2. Wheel arches and rocker panels—these trap mud and salt 3. Door bottoms and the trunk floor—water collects here; lift the trunk mat and look for dampness or repair welds 4. Around the windshield and sunroof drains—leaks cause hidden rust in the A-pillars Ask the inspector to do a magnet test: filler-repaired areas won't hold a magnet, indicating past accident repairs. A paint thickness gauge reveals resprayed sections—uniform readings around 80-150 microns are normal; spikes over 300 suggest bodywork. Cars from northern China (salted roads in winter) or coastal cities need extra scrutiny on the underbody. If structural members show corrosion, walk away—repairs rarely restore original strength.