China does not have a single public accident database like CARFAX, but you can still verify history from several sources. First, ask the exporter for the insurance claim records (出险记录). Major repairs go through insurance, and the claim history shows the date, amount, and damaged parts. A car with large claim amounts (over half its value) is effectively a total loss rebuild. Second, check the vehicle's registration certificate (机动车登记证书) for transfer history — multiple transfers in a short period often follow an accident. Third, run a VIN check through commercial platforms (paid, around 20-50 RMB) which aggregate insurance, maintenance, and auction data. Cross-check everything against a physical inspection: paint thickness readings on structural points, weld quality under the seals, and underbody photos. If the records and the physical condition do not match, walk away or demand a large discount.

It depends on the car's value, type and destination. RORO means the car is driven onto the vessel and secured on deck or in the hull. It is usually cheaper per car and does not involve container packing fees. The downside: the car sits exposed to salt air for weeks, and RORO service is limited to ports with dedicated terminals. Container shipping (one 20ft or 40ft container per 1-2 cars) costs more but gives much better protection. It is strongly recommended for electric vehicles (battery safety regulations), luxury cars, and vehicles going on long voyages or rough sea routes. Practical tips: whichever method you choose, ask for the car to be shipped with a full battery charge disconnected at the terminals, tire pressures adjusted, and a condition report with photos signed at loading. For EVs, confirm the shipping line accepts used electric vehicles and what state-of-charge limits apply.

Chinese EVs ship with GB/T charging ports, which are not used in Europe (Type 2/CCS2), North America (J1772/CCS1/NACS), or most of Latin America. Plan for these extras: 1. GB/T to local standard adapter or converter box: this lets you charge at public stations. A simple passive adapter works for AC charging; DC fast charging needs an active converter, which is expensive — many owners skip it and rely on AC. 2. Portable charger swap: the included travel charger has a GB/T plug. Buy a local wallbox or a portable EVSE with your country's plug instead. 3. Home electrical check: confirm your home circuit can handle 7–11 kW, and have an electrician install a dedicated line if needed. Ask the exporter for the car's charging port photos and on-board charger capacity before buying. Budget roughly a few hundred dollars for adapters and a wallbox. Without planning, you may end up with a car that can only trickle-charge from a wall socket.