Rust is a deal-breaker that photos can hide, so be systematic. High-risk areas to check: 1. Underbody and frame rails—surface rust is normal, but flaking or bubbling paint means advanced corrosion 2. Wheel arches and rocker panels—these trap mud and salt 3. Door bottoms and the trunk floor—water collects here; lift the trunk mat and look for dampness or repair welds 4. Around the windshield and sunroof drains—leaks cause hidden rust in the A-pillars Ask the inspector to do a magnet test: filler-repaired areas won't hold a magnet, indicating past accident repairs. A paint thickness gauge reveals resprayed sections—uniform readings around 80-150 microns are normal; spikes over 300 suggest bodywork. Cars from northern China (salted roads in winter) or coastal cities need extra scrutiny on the underbody. If structural members show corrosion, walk away—repairs rarely restore original strength.

If the car has been maintained at an authorized dealer, we can extract the desensitized official maintenance history (including entry time, mileage, and maintenance items) through a paid third-party data provider and provide it to you. If some year records are missing, we will honestly inform you that the "records are incomplete."

The nameplate date is the absolute time when the vehicle leaves the factory; the registration date is when the vehicle is registered with the traffic management department after sale. The difference represents the time the vehicle spent in the dealer's warehouse or logistics. If the time difference exceeds 6-8 months, the vehicle is considered a "stock vehicle," and we pay special attention to the natural aging of its rubber components.