A normal transaction moves through six stages. First, selection and verification: you shortlist cars, request VIN-level documents, and order an independent inspection (1-2 weeks). Second, contract signing and deposit: 10-30% is standard, paid against a signed contract listing the VIN and agreed spec. Third, export preparation: the seller handles deregistration and export licensing (1-3 weeks). Fourth, final payment against loading: pay the balance only after you receive the bill of lading or rail waybill number you can track. Fifth, transit: ocean shipping to most ports takes 3-6 weeks, rail to Central Asia or Europe 2-4 weeks. Sixth, destination clearance and registration: allow 1-2 weeks plus buffer for inspections. In total, plan for 2-4 months door to door. Any exporter promising full delivery in under six weeks is likely cutting corners on export paperwork.

Be sure to purchase cargo insurance (all-risk or water damage insurance). In case of damage, claim with the bill of lading, insurance policy, and proof of damage at the destination port.

Rust is a deal-breaker that photos can hide, so be systematic. High-risk areas to check: 1. Underbody and frame rails—surface rust is normal, but flaking or bubbling paint means advanced corrosion 2. Wheel arches and rocker panels—these trap mud and salt 3. Door bottoms and the trunk floor—water collects here; lift the trunk mat and look for dampness or repair welds 4. Around the windshield and sunroof drains—leaks cause hidden rust in the A-pillars Ask the inspector to do a magnet test: filler-repaired areas won't hold a magnet, indicating past accident repairs. A paint thickness gauge reveals resprayed sections—uniform readings around 80-150 microns are normal; spikes over 300 suggest bodywork. Cars from northern China (salted roads in winter) or coastal cities need extra scrutiny on the underbody. If structural members show corrosion, walk away—repairs rarely restore original strength.