Rust is a deal-breaker that photos can hide, so be systematic. High-risk areas to check: 1. Underbody and frame rails—surface rust is normal, but flaking or bubbling paint means advanced corrosion 2. Wheel arches and rocker panels—these trap mud and salt 3. Door bottoms and the trunk floor—water collects here; lift the trunk mat and look for dampness or repair welds 4. Around the windshield and sunroof drains—leaks cause hidden rust in the A-pillars Ask the inspector to do a magnet test: filler-repaired areas won't hold a magnet, indicating past accident repairs. A paint thickness gauge reveals resprayed sections—uniform readings around 80-150 microns are normal; spikes over 300 suggest bodywork. Cars from northern China (salted roads in winter) or coastal cities need extra scrutiny on the underbody. If structural members show corrosion, walk away—repairs rarely restore original strength.

We will provide extremely accurate production year, first registration date, and Chinese emission standards (e.g., National VI). However, the final responsibility for confirming whether this data complies with the importing country's regulations lies with the buyer, and you need to submit it to the local customs for verification before placing an order.

Battery health is the single biggest risk when buying a used Chinese EV remotely. Ask for a battery report showing state of health (SOH) and cell voltage balance from the car's BMS or a diagnostic scan — anything below 85% SOH deserves a price reduction or a pass. Check fast-charge counts and whether the pack has warranty remaining; many Chinese EVs carry 8-year/150,000 km battery warranties that may or may not transfer. Verify real-world range from energy consumption history rather than the dashboard estimate. Also confirm the on-board charger works with your country's voltage, and ask whether the connected app and OTA updates will remain accessible in your region before you pay.