Typically you will need: 1. The commercial invoice and packing list from the seller; 2. The bill of lading issued by the shipping line; 3. The vehicle's export customs declaration; 4. The original registration certificate and a deregistration or transfer proof from China; 5. A certificate of origin if your country requires it; 6. Destination-specific documents, such as a pre-shipment inspection certificate (for example ECTN for West African ports). Requirements vary by country, so confirm the full list with your customs broker before shipment.

Interior wear is harder to fake than an odometer and often reveals true usage better than any document. Focus on high-contact points the seller rarely restores. The driver's seat bolster shows creasing and cracking by 80,000-100,000 km even with covers. Steering wheel leather polishes smooth and darkens with hand oils; a shiny wheel with low claimed mileage is a red flag. Pedal rubbers wear through at similar rates — check accelerator, brake, and clutch depth. Second-row wear patterns tell you how the car was used: heavy child-seat indentations suggest family use (usually gentler), while uniform rear wear with clean front suggests commercial or ride-hailing duty. Check seat rails for rust (indicates water ingress) and look under floor mats for moisture staining or musty smell — flood cars often hide it there. Also examine the infotainment and instrument cluster: Chinese EVs log usage data internally, and a dealer diagnostic readout can cross-check driving hours against mileage. Request close-up, well-lit photos of these specific points during your live video inspection rather than relying on the seller's gallery.

Battery condition is the single most important — and most expensive — variable in a used EV. Ask for a State of Health (SOH) report: in China, dealers and authorized service centers can read it via the manufacturer diagnostic system. It shows remaining capacity as a percentage of the original. Rule of thumb: above 90% is excellent, 85-90% is acceptable for the price, below 80% needs a serious price cut or battery refurbishment. Also get the battery's full charge and discharge history (次数) — a 3-year-old car with 800 fast-charge cycles has lived a harder life than one with 200. Physically, inspect the battery pack enclosure on a lift for dents, corrosion, or coolant leaks. Check that DC fast charging works during a test charge. Finally, verify the battery is not covered by an open recall or replacement program — this is both a risk and sometimes a free upgrade.