Rust is a deal-breaker that photos can hide, so be systematic. High-risk areas to check: 1. Underbody and frame rails—surface rust is normal, but flaking or bubbling paint means advanced corrosion 2. Wheel arches and rocker panels—these trap mud and salt 3. Door bottoms and the trunk floor—water collects here; lift the trunk mat and look for dampness or repair welds 4. Around the windshield and sunroof drains—leaks cause hidden rust in the A-pillars Ask the inspector to do a magnet test: filler-repaired areas won't hold a magnet, indicating past accident repairs. A paint thickness gauge reveals resprayed sections—uniform readings around 80-150 microns are normal; spikes over 300 suggest bodywork. Cars from northern China (salted roads in winter) or coastal cities need extra scrutiny on the underbody. If structural members show corrosion, walk away—repairs rarely restore original strength.

Under CIF terms, the beneficiary of the insurance policy will be endorsed to the buyer. Once the claim is successful, the insurance company's foreign currency compensation will be directly deposited into the buyer's designated overseas company or personal account.

The standard set: commercial invoice, packing list, bill of lading, export customs declaration, certificate of origin, and a copy of the vehicle title/registration. How to verify: the bill of lading number should be trackable on the shipping line's website; the certificate of origin is verifiable through CCPIT's online system; and the VIN must match across all documents, the inspection report, and the car itself. Ask for scans of everything before paying the balance, and have a freight forwarder review the set. Mismatched VINs, missing title copies, or vague promises that "documents will follow" are red flags worth pausing the deal over.