Remote mechanical assessment relies on documented evidence: 1. Cold-start video: Ask for a video of the engine starting from cold — listen for rattles, watch for smoke (blue = oil burning, white = possible head gasket issue). 2. OBD scan: A full diagnostic scan reveals fault codes in the engine, gearbox, and electronics. Request the raw scan report, not a screenshot summary. 3. Service records: Cross-check mileage against maintenance records and inspection stickers; consistent records indicate a cared-for car. 4. Fluid check: Photos of the oil dipstick and coolant color tell a lot — milky oil or rusty coolant are red flags. 5. Test drive video: A short drive video shows gear shifts, braking, and steering behavior. Combine these with the pre-shipment inspection report. A seller who refuses to provide cold-start video or OBD data is a warning sign.

Comparing headline prices alone will mislead you—quotes often bundle or exclude different items. Build a like-for-like comparison before deciding. Request every exporter to break their quote into: vehicle price, domestic transport in China, export handling and documentation fees, inspection fee, ocean freight to your port, and insurance. Then add what they exclude: your country's customs duty, VAT/GST, port charges, and local delivery. Watch for common padding: "service fees" of 3-8% that appear only in the final invoice, inflated inland transport (a truck from Guangzhou to a port should rarely exceed a few hundred dollars), and freight quotes that assume a shared container while charging you for a full one. Ask each exporter to state validity (7-14 days is normal) and whether the price is FOB or CIF. Once normalized, the cheapest quote usually isn't the lowest number—it's the one with the shortest list of exclusions and the clearest terms.

Odometer fraud exists everywhere, but cross-checking several data points makes it hard to fake: 1) Maintenance records: ask for service history with mileage entries. Gaps or resets are red flags. 2) Tire wear: a car showing 30,000 km should not have nearly bald tires. Compare tread depth against the claimed mileage. 3) Pedals, steering wheel, and seat bolsters: heavy wear on these with low odometer readings is a classic mismatch. 4) Diagnostic scan: request an OBD readout. Many control modules store mileage data internally — if the ECU shows 120,000 km while the dash shows 40,000, you have your answer. 5) Vehicle history report: in China, apps and platforms can pull insurance claim records and registration history, which often reveal the true mileage trail. Always request a live video showing the odometer with the engine running, and have the number written into your contract.