The technician will start the vehicle and turn on the air conditioning system, measuring the actual temperature at the vents at the lowest and highest settings with a thermometer; at the same time, they will connect a manifold pressure gauge to check if the refrigerant pressure in the high and low pressure lines is within the normal range, determining if there is a chronic refrigerant leak.

Absolutely not. Any secondary damage caused by overseas non-professional repairs, violent disassembly, or the use of inferior replacement fluids will immediately void any form of "extended parts compensation" we provide.

Water damage is one of the most common hidden problems in used cars, and it often escapes basic photo reviews. During a live video inspection, ask the inspector to check these specific points: 1. Smell test: A musty or moldy odor inside the cabin is the first red flag. Have them open all doors, run the AC briefly, and smell the air from the vents—musty AC often indicates water in the HVAC system. 2. Under the carpets: Lift the floor mats and look for water lines, rust stains, or dampness on the carpet backing and the metal floor underneath. Sediment or silt residue is a giveaway. 3. Seat rails and bolts: Pull the seats fully forward and backward. Rust on seat rails or fresh-looking bolts suggests the seats were removed for cleaning after flooding. 4. Trunk area: Check the spare tire well and under the trunk carpet for standing water marks or rust. 5. Electronics: Test every window, seat adjustment, and the infotainment screen—water-damaged electronics behave erratically. Also request a scan report: flood cars often store history codes for multiple control modules that failed simultaneously. Cross-check the car's origin; vehicles from flood-prone southern regions deserve extra scrutiny.