Yes. For bulk purchases, we can organize and package the core historical records (transfer records, maintenance summaries) for each vehicle. If an English version is needed, we can provide a basic machine translation reference, and human translation assistance for key technical terms.

Rust is a deal-breaker that photos can hide, so be systematic. High-risk areas to check: 1. Underbody and frame rails—surface rust is normal, but flaking or bubbling paint means advanced corrosion 2. Wheel arches and rocker panels—these trap mud and salt 3. Door bottoms and the trunk floor—water collects here; lift the trunk mat and look for dampness or repair welds 4. Around the windshield and sunroof drains—leaks cause hidden rust in the A-pillars Ask the inspector to do a magnet test: filler-repaired areas won't hold a magnet, indicating past accident repairs. A paint thickness gauge reveals resprayed sections—uniform readings around 80-150 microns are normal; spikes over 300 suggest bodywork. Cars from northern China (salted roads in winter) or coastal cities need extra scrutiny on the underbody. If structural members show corrosion, walk away—repairs rarely restore original strength.

Strict definition: All metal body parts (doors, hood, fenders) and the frame must retain the original factory paint, with uniform paint thickness readings. Minor touch-ups or replacements of plastic bumpers, as they do not affect metal corrosion protection and vehicle structure, can still be classified as "original paint" in a broad sense, but we will separately note the condition of the bumper.